Electronic Theses and Dissertation

Minyak nilam (Pogostemon cablin Benth.) merupakan komoditas atsiri penting Indonesia yang berfungsi sebagai fiksatif alami dan memiliki aktivitas aromaterapi, namun penggunaannya dalam parfum konvensional terkendala oleh volatilitas tinggi dan risiko iritasi akibat alkohol. Penelitian ini bertujuan memformulasikan sediaan nanoemulsi gel parfum dari minyak nilam serta mengevaluasi karakteristik fisikokimia, stabilitas, performa aroma, dan tingkat penerimaannya. Penelitian eksperimental laboratorium ini membuat empat formula: F0 (kontrol), F1 (1,5%), F2 (2%), dan F3 (2,5%). Minyak nilam dikarakterisasi melalui uji organoleptik dan bobot jenis. Sediaan dievaluasi meliputi uji organoleptik, homogenitas, viskositas dan sifat alir, daya sebar, daya lekat, pH, uji SPL (sillage, projection, longevity), uji hedonik, PSA, serta uji stabilitas dengan cycling test 6 siklus. Karakterisasi minyak nilam menunjukkan warna kuning jernih, bau khas earthy dan woody, serta bobot jenis 0,96 g/cm3 (memenuhi SNI 06-2385- 2019). Seluruh formula menunjukkan homogenitas baik, pH 6,10-6,30, daya sebar 5,4-5,9 cm, dan daya lekat 6,85-7,41 detik. Viskositas sediaan 34.560-37.810 cPs dengan sifat alir pseudoplastis. Uji SPL menunjukkan peningkatan longevity dari 4 jam (F0) menjadi 8-9 jam (F2 dan F3). Uji hedonik menunjukkan F3 paling disukai panelis, namun F2 lebih ekonomis. Analisis PSA pada F2 menunjukkan Z-average 736,0 nm dengan PDI 0,674, di mana 99,3% partikel berukuran 9,556 nm.Uji stabilitas menunjukkan sediaan stabil setelah 6 siklus cycling test dengan perubahan minimal. Nanoemulsi gel terbukti efektif meningkatkan daya tahan aroma parfum berbasis minyak nilam. Formula F2 (minyak nilam 2%) merupakan komposisi optimal dengan keseimbangan terbaik antara daya tahan aroma (8 jam), kesukaan panelis, dan efisiensi bahan baku.
Kata Kunci: Minyak nilam, nanoemulsi gel, aromaterapi, parfum, stabilitas, patchouli alcohol, PSA

Patchouli oil (Pogostemon cablin Benth.) is an important Indonesian essential oil that acts as a natural fixative and has aromatherapy activity, but its use in conventional perfumes is constrained by high volatility and alcohol-induced irritation. This study aimed to formulate a nanoemulsion gel perfume from patchouli oil and to evaluate its physicochemical characteristics, stability, fragrance performance, and consumer acceptance. This experimental laboratory study created four formulas: F0 (control), F1 (1.5%), F2 (2%), and F3 (2.5%). Patchouli oil was characterized through organoleptic and specific gravity tests. The preparations were evaluated for organoleptic properties, homogeneity, viscosity and flow properties, spreadability, adhesion, pH, SPL test (sillage, projection, longevity), hedonic test, PSA, and physical stability using a 6-cycle cycling test. Characterization showed clear yellow color, characteristic earthy and woody odor, and specific gravity of 0.96 g/cm3 (meeting SNI 06-2385-2019). All formulas showed good homogeneity, pH 6.10–6.30, spreadability 5.4–5.9 cm, and adhesion 6.85–7.41 seconds. Viscosity ranged from 34,560–37,810 cPs with pseudoplastic flow. SPL test showed increased longevity from 4 hours (F0) to 8–9 hours (F2 and F3). Hedonic test showed F3 was the most preferred, but F2 was more economical. PSA analysis of F2 showed Z-average of 736.0 nm with PDI 0.674, where 99.3% of particles were 9.556 nm. Stability test showed the preparations were stable after 6 cycles with minimal changes. Nanoemulsion gel effectively improved fragrance longevity. Formula F2 (2% patchouli oil) is the optimal composition providing the best balance between longevity (8 hours), panelist preference, and cost efficiency. Keywords: Patchouli oil, nanoemulsion gel, aromatherapy, perfume, stability, patchouli alcohol, PSA