Electronic Theses and Dissertation

Sun Protection Factor (SPF) digunakan untuk menunjukkan tingkat perlindungan suatu sediaan sunscreen terhadap sinar ultraviolet (UV). Minyak nilam mengandung patchouli alkohol yang memiliki aktivitas antioksidan. Minyak nilam fraksi berat hasil distilasi molekuler mengandung 61,82% patchouli alkohol. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui karakteristik dan menentukan nilai SPF minyak nilam fraksi berat serta mengevaluasi karakteristik formulasi serta nilai SPF pada sediaan chemical sunscreen. Nilai SPF diuji menggunakan spektrofotometer UV-Vis dan dihitung menggunakan persamaan Mansur. Karakterisasi fisik minyak nilam menunjukkan warna kuning muda, bau khas nilam, dengan bobot jenis 0,998 g/mL, dan indeks bias 1,5170. Nilai SPF minyak nilam sebesar 37,63 yang termasuk kategori perlindungan ultra. Formulasi sunscreen dibuat dalam bentuk emulgel dengan variasi konsentrasi minyak nilam yang digunakan adalah 0% (kontrol), 0,25% (F1), 0,5% (F2), dan 1% (F3). Sediaan chemical sunscreen diformulasikan menggunakan metode beaker dan dievaluasi stabilitas fisikokimia serta nilai SPF nya. Evaluasi dilakukan terhadap berbagai parameter fisik sediaan, termasuk organoleptis, homogenitas, pH, viskositas, tipe emulgel, daya sebar, daya lekat, dan stabilitas selama penyimpanan. Uji keamanan sediaan dilakukan meliputi uji iritasi kulit dan uji cemaran mikroba serta logam berat. Sediaan chemical sunscreen berwarna putih opaque – putih gading, dengan pH 6,4 – 5,2, nilai viskositas 2924-2011 cPs, daya sebar 4-6 cm, daya lekat 5,38 – 8,28 detik, dengan tipe emulsi minyak dalam air (M/A), nilai SPF sebesar 8,85-29,02. Hasil evaluasi menunjukkan bahwa semua formulasi memenuhi standar kualitas yang ditetapkan, stabil selama penyimpanan, dan tidak menyebabkan iritasi pada sukarelawan. Nilai SPF minyak nilam sebesar 37,63 yang termasuk kategori perlindungan ultra. Nilai SPF sediaan chemical sunscreen dengan nilai terbaik pada formula 3 dengan konsentrasi minyak 1% sebesar 29,02 yang termasuk kategori perlindungan ultra.

Kata kunci: sinar uv; minyak nilam fraksi berat; patchouli alkohol; chemical sunscreen, SPF

The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is used to indicate the level of protection provided by a sunscreen formulation against ultraviolet (UV) rays. Patchouli oil contains patchouli alcohol, which exhibits antioxidant activity. The heavy fraction of patchouli oil obtained through molecular distillation contains 61.82% patchouli alcohol. This study aims to characterize and determine the SPF value of the heavy fraction of patchouli oil and to evaluate the characteristics and SPF value of chemical sunscreen formulations. The SPF was tested using a UV-Vis spectrophotometer and calculated using the Mansur equation.The physical characterization of patchouli oil showed a pale yellow color, a characteristic patchouli aroma, a specific gravity of 0.998 g/mL, and a refractive index of 1.5170. The SPF value of patchouli oil was found to be 37.63, categorizing it as providing ultra protection. Sunscreen formulations were prepared in the form of emulgel with varying concentrations of patchouli oil: 0% (control), 0.25% (F1), 0.5% (F2), and 1% (F3). The chemical sunscreen formulations were developed using the beaker method and evaluated for physicochemical stability and SPF values. The evaluation included various physical parameters of the formulations, such as organoleptic properties, homogeneity, pH, viscosity, emulgel type, spreadability, adhesiveness, and stability during storage. Safety tests were conducted, including skin irritation tests and tests for microbial and heavy metal contamination. The chemical sunscreen formulations appeared as white opaque to ivory-white, with pH values ranging from 6.4 to 5.2, viscosity between 2924 and 2011 cPs, spreadability of 4–6 cm, adhesiveness of 5.38–8.28 seconds, and an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion type. The SPF values ranged from 8.85 to 29.02.The results of the evaluation showed that all formulations met the established quality standards, were stable during storage, and caused no irritation to volunteers. The SPF value of patchouli oil was 37.63, classified as providing ultra protection. The SPF values of the chemical sunscreen formulations ranged from 8.85 to 29.02, with the best result observed in Formula 3, which contained 1% patchouli oil and achieved an SPF of 29.02, also classified as ultra protection. Keywords: UV rays, heavy fraction patchouli oil, patchouli alcohol, chemical sunscreen, SPF