Electronic Theses and Dissertation

Gelombang laut merupakan faktor utama dalam aktivitas penangkapan dan navigasi laut. selain itu, gelombang laut memiliki peran penting dalam dinamika pantai seperti transpor sedimen, perubahan garis pantai, dan pembentukan arus lokal. telah dilakukan penelitian terkait variabilitas gelombang di perairan barat aceh. penelitian ini bertujuan untuk menganalisis tinggi, periode, arah gelombang dominan di perairan barat aceh dan menganalisis variabilitas gelombang di perairan barat aceh. data penelitian yang digunakan bersumber pada hasil pemodelan gelombang global ocean analysis and forecast system dari copernicus. proses analisis dilakukan menggunakan matlab, mencakup visualisasi spasial, anomali bulanan, time series harian di enam titik, serta diagram mawar gelombang. hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa tinggi gelombang signifikan (swh) tertinggi terjadi pada bulan juli-september, dengan nilai maksimum melebihi 3 meter pada beberapa titik. arah dominan gelombang berasal dari barat daya, sesuai dengan pengaruh monsun barat daya. anomali positif terlihat jelas pada pertengahan tahun, mengindikasikan peningkatan energi gelombang. kata kunci : signifikan wave height, arah gelombang, mawar gelombang, periode gelombang, copernicus marine.

Ocean waves are a major factor in fishing activities and marine navigation. Furthermore, ocean waves play a significant role in coastal dynamics, such as sediment transport, shoreline changes, and the formation of local currents. A study on wave variability in the waters west of Aceh has been conducted. This study aims to analyze the height, period, and direction of dominant waves in the waters west of Aceh, as well as wave variability in the waters west of Aceh. The research data used are sourced from the results of wave modeling using the global ocean analysis and forecast system from Copernicus. The analysis process was carried out using MATLAB, including spatial visualization, monthly anomalies, daily time series at six points, and wave rose diagrams. The results show that the highest significant wave height (SWH) occurs in July-September, with maximum values exceeding 3 meters at several points. The dominant wave direction originates from the southwest, consistent with the influence of the southwest monsoon. Positive anomalies are clearly visible in the middle of the year, indicating increased wave energy. Keywords : significant wave height, wave direction, wave rose, wave period, copernicus marine.